A dripping tap wastes up to 20 litres of water per day and adds hundreds of rands to your water bill every month. The good news: most tap leaks are caused by a worn washer — a R5 part — and fixing it takes about 20 minutes with tools you either already own or can buy for under R200.
Here's exactly how to do it, step by step.
- Adjustable spanner or set of spanners
- Needle-nose pliers (optional but helpful)
Parts (from any hardware store, R5–R20):
- Replacement tap washer (bring the old one to match the size)
- O-ring (if it's a ceramic disc tap)
STEP 1 — Turn off the water supply
Find the isolation valve under the sink (a small slot-head screw on the pipe) and turn it 90 degrees with a flathead screwdriver. If there's no isolation valve, turn off the main water supply to the house.
Open the tap fully to release any remaining pressure and drain the water sitting in the pipe.
STEP 2 — Remove the tap handle
Most tap handles have a small decorative cap on top (marked H or C). Pop it off with a flathead screwdriver. Underneath you'll find a screw — remove it with a Phillips screwdriver. The handle should now lift straight off.
If it's stiff, don't force it. Wiggle it gently while pulling upward.
STEP 3 — Remove the headgear
The headgear is the brass unit underneath the handle that controls water flow. Use an adjustable spanner to unscrew it — turn anticlockwise. Keep your other hand steadying the tap body so it doesn't turn with it.
Once loose, lift the whole headgear assembly out.
STEP 4 — Replace the washer
At the bottom of the headgear you'll see the washer — a small rubber disc held in place by a brass nut or simply pressed into a seat.
- If it's held by a nut, remove the nut with pliers, swap the washer, refit the nut
- If it's pressed in, pry it out with a screwdriver and press the new one firmly in place
The new washer must be exactly the same size. When in doubt, take the old one to the hardware store to match it.
STEP 5 — Reassemble and test
Screw the headgear back in clockwise — hand tight first, then one firm turn with the spanner. Don't overtighten. Refit the handle and screw. Replace the decorative cap.
Turn the water supply back on slowly. Turn the tap on and off a few times. The drip should be gone.
If the tap still leaks after replacing the washer, the valve seat (the surface the washer presses against) may be damaged. This is a slightly more involved repair but still DIY-able with a seat grinder tool. If you're seeing leaks around the handle rather than from the spout, the O-ring on the spindle needs replacing — same process, different part.
When to call a plumber: if you open the tap body and find cracked plastic, corroded brass, or anything that looks badly damaged, stop and call a professional. A R200 plumber call is cheaper than a burst pipe.
Tools used in this guide are available at The Tool Nation — adjustable spanners, screwdriver sets, and needle-nose pliers are all in stock.